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Breeding Alpacas: Part 4 (Birthing)

Updated: Jan 6

Next in our alpaca breeding mini-series is the birthing process. For the complete series, check out part 1 (selecting your breeding herd) or part 2 (the mating process) or part 3 (gestation and pregnancy testing) or part 4 (birthing) and part 5 (early cria care) or part 6 (cria care beyond the first week).





Prepare Ahead of Birthing


Birthing (known as unpacking in alpacas) is usually straightforward, with most females giving birth during daylight hours and typically without assistance. Even so, being prepared for the occasional complication is essential for the safety and wellbeing of both the dam and the cria. Recognising the signs of labour, understanding when intervention may be needed, and ensuring a clean, safe environment are key to supporting a smooth delivery. With the right knowledge and preparation, you can make an important difference to the birthing process for both dam & cria. Planning ahead of the birthing season will help you feel ready and equipped, making the experience smoother for everyone involved.


Weather permitting, it is best to allow your alpacas to give birth outdoors on clean pasture. This reduces the risk of bacteria and infection for both dam and cria compared to birthing inside. Ideally, pregnant females should be moved into a designated ‘maternity paddock’ near your home. This makes it easier to carry out frequent checks during the day and, if necessary, at night.


Make a note of due dates and adjust your schedule accordingly. Around these times, you’ll need to be especially watchful carrying out many checks through the day (and possibly into the night) and be available in case assistance is needed. Breeding and rearing alpacas is a true commitment and one that should absolutely take priority over social plans or days off. If that level of responsibility doesn't appeal to you, alpaca breeding may not be the path for you.



Alpaca Birthing Kit Contents


It’s important to have all the necessary equipment to hand and be prepared, as when the time comes, you won’t want to be scrambling for supplies with shops or vets closed, or trying to assist with a birth without the proper equipment. Here is a suggested kit contents list: 


Base Kit

  • Distinct, labelled box

  • Vets phone number

  • Towel to dry cria, if needed

  • Thermometer 

  • Disposable gloves 

  • Weigh sling & scales 

  • Iodine 10% (and a spray bottle)

  • Umbilical clamps

  • Fastract Jump Start

  • Head torch 

  • Bag to dispose of afterbirth 


In case dam needs assistance:

  • Vet wrap / bandage to tie the tail out of the way

  • Individual lubricant tubes (lube is the perfect base to culture bacteria, so big bottles that are used more than once will harvest bacteria and  not what you want to be inserting that into a female!)

  • Hibiscrub and bucket (to sterilise hands and utensils)

  • Arm length calving gloves 

  • Lambing ropes/head snare

  • Honey/glucose

  • Loxicom (painkiller & anti-inflammatory)


In case cria needs support:

  • Alpaca colostrum (see part 5 on early cria care for more info on when and how this is required)

  • Feeding bottle and Pritchard’s lamb teat (the yellow and red one)

  • Milton sterilising fluid 

  • Stomach feeding tube & syringe

  • Cria coat in case of a difficult birth/poor weather conditions

  • Hot water bottle (prioritise warming the armpits as the main vein going back to the heart is here and will speed up the process) 





Signs of an alpaca getting close to due date


Here are key signs to look out for as your alpaca approaches their birthing date:


7-10 days before: 

  • 'Bagging up' of the udder as milk is being produced, ready for the cria - although it’s worth noting that you may have to physically feel for this change, as it is much more subtle in alpacas vs other animals, such as sheep or cows


In the image, you can see the alpaca ‘bagging up’, with a cria due soon


5-7 days before:

  • Relaxing of sacrotuberous ligaments (felt either side of the tail to the point of the hip)

  • Dropping of the belly and hollowing in the hips (this is hard to explain, but it really does just look like their belly is lower than it was the day before - spending lots of time with your alpacas and knowing what their bodies usually look like well will help you identify when this happens)


1-2 days before:

  • Sacrotuberous ligaments feel practically non-existent

  • The maiden/dam is often feeling a bit uncomfortable at this stage, becoming more restless and agitated and may take herself to the peripherals of the herd for some peace and quiet





What to Expect at Birthing


Alpacas are rather secretive when unpacking and rarely need assistance, so you may not even see the process and just see a cria that is already born! That being said, problems do occur from time to time, so it is recommended to check your alpaca at least every two hours in the lead up to the due date, at least every hour during the day when she is close to giving birth and every 15 minutes when you suspect she is going into labour. If you can't make that commitment, breeding alpacas may not be for you! 


According to a 2017 study by The Alpaca Vet, Claire Whitehead, 85% of alpacas birth between 8am and 4pm. This allows the cria to dry off before nightfall, as the dam does not lick the cria. Alpacas birthing outside of these hours have been found to be more likely to encounter difficulties, so a night time birth could be cause for concern that something isn’t right. 


Alpacas like to give birth during good weather and can hold onto pregnancy longer if the weather is poor and better weather is on its way. In fact, another study conducted by Claire Whitehead, demonstrated that 72% of births took place in sunshine or partial cloud. 


There are 3 stages of labour; Preparatory Phase, Delivery and Placenta Expulsion which we will explore below.





Stage 1 Labour (Preparatory Phase)


Trust your instincts through the process and if at any time you are not sure things are progressing as they should, call your vet immediately.


  • Lasts approx. 2 - 6 hours

  • Withdrawing from the herd to the perimeters of the group

  • Disinterest in food

  • Restless and/or agitated behaviour & can't appear to get comfortable

  • Frequently visiting the poo pile

  • Humming often

  • Lying with legs to side


Time to call the vet: 

  • No progression from stage 1 to stage 2 labour after 5 hours

  • Straining at poo pile for more than 1 hour 

  • Dam is rolling excessively or cushing and looking uncomfortable

  • Dam is bleeding from the vulva before delivery of cria

  • Dam can’t stand



BELOW: Two examples of a swollen vulva, with the tail lifted.






Stage 2 Labour (Delivery)


  • Lasts approx. 20 - 60 minutes

  • Uterine contractions (active pushing) begin

  • Tail lifted 

  • Fluid bag, usually greyish-blue in colour, may be visible 

  • Feet and nose visible

  • Cria is born


The normal, ideal presentation of a cria in delivery is forward-facing, with the nose and two front feet emerging together (the head may be resting on top of or between the legs) and the cria’s spine aligned with the dams. In this position, birthing should continue well and without assistance. 


It’s normal for the cria to shake it’s head and look like it’s gasping - it is not actually gasping for air, as it’s still attached to the umbilical cord for oxygen. Look for a bright pink tongue as a sign of a healthy cria. The dam may have superficial tearing at the vulva accompanied by a little blood. 


It is important to remain calm and allow the dam to take her time during this stage as after the head and feet, the widest section of the cria (chest and shoulders) has to move through the pelvis and cervix and the dam needs time for the cervix to dilate fully to accommodate this. If the cria is pulled before the dam is ready, the cervix can be torn which is firstly painful for her and as it is irreparable, it will likely render her unable to breed in the future. It is normal for the dam to take a rest of up to 30 minutes where you may see her grazing and simply resting and provided that the cria is presented normally and the dam does not appear stressed, leave her be. 


Other herd members can be very interested in the events and start gathering round. This is ok, as long as the dam is not too stressed, or the investigative parties don’t try and adopt the cria for themselves. If the latter situations do occur, you may need to calmy separate the dam, with a friend, from the rest of the group. (This is why having a maternity paddock, with a smaller number of expectant dams in is a good idea.)


Time to call the vet: 

  • No progression in stage 2 labour after 15 minutes of pushing 

  • The dam is rolling, lying with legs out to side and flared nostrils 

  • The amniotic sac comes, but cria does not follow within 20 minutes

  • Placenta comes before cria 

  • Uterine or vaginal prolapse



BELOW Photo 1: A very large 11KG cria being delivered by a large grey dam. The head and feet are both present, just waiting for the legs to extend. 


BELOW Photo 2: A petite 7KG cria being delivered by a fawn maiden. The head and feet are both present and the legs have already extended. 



BELOW: Alpacas can give birth lying down, but will often stand to give birth, which is very normal and helps to naturally drain fluid from the cria’s airways.



BELOW: A female gives birth.




What if things aren't progressing?


We hope birthing goes very smoothly, but of course there are times when it doesn't. Noticing and acting quickly are key to ensuring the safety of the dam and cria. It's a lot to cover and best learnt on an Alpaca Breeding Course, such as the one we run here at Fostings Alpacas. Along with discussing selecting your alpacas, the mating process, gestation and pregnancy testing and normal birthing, we also cover quick trouble shooting for cria, malpresentation including knowing when you can correct it (and how) and when to call the vet, as well as early cria care and care beyond the first week.





Stage 3 Labour (Placenta Expulsion)


  • Usually within 4 hours of cria delivery

  • Usually within 2-4 hours after giving birth, the placenta - also known as 'afterbirth' or 'cleanse' - should be expelled in its entirety, with two complete horns. If you are unsure if the whole placenta has been passed, keep hold of it so you can show your vet.

  • Alpacas do not eat the placenta like sheep or cows do, so it should be picked up and removed from the paddock. 

  • If the placenta has not passed within 4-6 hours, this is called a retained placenta and the dam is at risk of a uterine infection which can make her very poorly. Call your vet immediately who may administer an oxytocin injection to stimulate the expulsion and may need to flush the female. 


Time to call the vet: 

  • Placenta comes before cria 

  • Placenta has not been passed within 4-6 hours after delivery of the cria. 








Expand your knowledge


There's a lot to learn about breeding alpacas, such as selecting your alpacas, the mating process, supporting the female through gestation, testing for continued pregnancy, the birthing and what to expect as well as trouble shooting problems including malpresentation - when you can correct it and when to call the vet - as well as early cria care and care beyond the first week. The Alpaca Breeding Course, here at Fostings Alpacas offers all of this in a mixed theory and practical delivery, so you come away confident in knowing what to expect when breeding alpacas.




Disclaimer: Fostings Alpacas are not a veterinarian body. Always consult your vet when creating a health plan for your herd and if you are ever concerned about your alpacas. 

Image by Kristin O Karlsen
Alpaca Husbandry Courses

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